The elements of faux painting aren't difficult but there's always room for error here and there. Keep these important tips in mind and you're half way there.
1. Your end result is only going to be as good as your materials. That applies to paint and brush quality but above all to your surface. Think of it as your canvas. You're about as likely to achieve your aims on a surface coated with flat paint as you would be painting on tissue paper.
Eggshell or satin base paint is the best undercoat. Faux finishes don't work as well on flat paint surfaces. Paint also needs to dry slowly and flat finishes tend to dry quickly and the scope for fixing mistakes is limited. Finally, underlying flat paint just seems to dull finishes.
2. Forget fancy equipment. You don't need it and you can find economical substitutes for specialist equipment. Buy quality paint and paintbrushes instead of splurging on gimmicks. As a paint palette try using ice cube trays. They have the added advantage of storing more paint. Almost any soft sponge will serve as an applicator and you don't need to buy one from an art supply shop.
A money saving tip is to put any leftover paint in your freezer, to thaw and use later, rather than letting it dry and go to waste. Another economy measure is to use dishwashing liquid for cleaning brushes, instead of buying expensive professional products. It will even work on some partly oil-based paints.
3. If your surface is pitted or cracked, it will need filling, and sanding when dry. A common error is to assume that that once your faux finish is completed your job is done. Wrong! You MUST seal with water-based sealer before painting, or your wall will look blotchy and diseased. Seal with a color that blends in with the rest of the wall or patches will show through. If you don't have that original paint, mix the sealer with suitably colored acrylic paint to minimize the contrast.
4. Remember the old adage: oil and water don't go together. It's easy to skip reading the labels on the tin in your eagerness to get going but it can be a costly error. Know which of your paints are water-based and which are oil paints. Remember that latex paints contain water.
5. Not only is it true that mess is stress, but lack of cleanliness will foul up your finish. You need to clean brushes really well if you don't want previously used colors contaminating your handiwork. Running water and finger massage won't clean properly. That doesn't mean you need expensive professional cleaning pads. Check the kids' department: you can find cleaning pads there at a fraction of the price.
6. Mess has a way of multiplying. Splashes and streaks are bad enough in your own home but they are unacceptable if you are working for someone else. If you do splash on carpets, don't use water or chemicals to try to remove it. It could make matters worse. For small splashes, trim the ends of the soiled threads with a pair of small scissors when the paint has dried. If the patch is too large, a product called Goof Off may do the trick.
6. Wet and dry don't mix. If you're using glazes you need to make sure that you're not creating areas where wet paint meets dry edges. The dry paint won't spread at the meeting point and the join will show. Plan to paint areas in one session, without a break. That includes, telephone, tea and toilet interludes. The hotter the weather the faster you will need to work before areas of glaze dries.
7. You may not recognize your painting style, but everyone has their own unique technique. That's why collaborative efforts don't work. People can work together as long as they work on different layers or walls, not different sections of the same layer/wall. Your style can even change during a day: pre- and post-lunch. Plan your sessions and breaks to maximize uniformity in technique. - 16492
1. Your end result is only going to be as good as your materials. That applies to paint and brush quality but above all to your surface. Think of it as your canvas. You're about as likely to achieve your aims on a surface coated with flat paint as you would be painting on tissue paper.
Eggshell or satin base paint is the best undercoat. Faux finishes don't work as well on flat paint surfaces. Paint also needs to dry slowly and flat finishes tend to dry quickly and the scope for fixing mistakes is limited. Finally, underlying flat paint just seems to dull finishes.
2. Forget fancy equipment. You don't need it and you can find economical substitutes for specialist equipment. Buy quality paint and paintbrushes instead of splurging on gimmicks. As a paint palette try using ice cube trays. They have the added advantage of storing more paint. Almost any soft sponge will serve as an applicator and you don't need to buy one from an art supply shop.
A money saving tip is to put any leftover paint in your freezer, to thaw and use later, rather than letting it dry and go to waste. Another economy measure is to use dishwashing liquid for cleaning brushes, instead of buying expensive professional products. It will even work on some partly oil-based paints.
3. If your surface is pitted or cracked, it will need filling, and sanding when dry. A common error is to assume that that once your faux finish is completed your job is done. Wrong! You MUST seal with water-based sealer before painting, or your wall will look blotchy and diseased. Seal with a color that blends in with the rest of the wall or patches will show through. If you don't have that original paint, mix the sealer with suitably colored acrylic paint to minimize the contrast.
4. Remember the old adage: oil and water don't go together. It's easy to skip reading the labels on the tin in your eagerness to get going but it can be a costly error. Know which of your paints are water-based and which are oil paints. Remember that latex paints contain water.
5. Not only is it true that mess is stress, but lack of cleanliness will foul up your finish. You need to clean brushes really well if you don't want previously used colors contaminating your handiwork. Running water and finger massage won't clean properly. That doesn't mean you need expensive professional cleaning pads. Check the kids' department: you can find cleaning pads there at a fraction of the price.
6. Mess has a way of multiplying. Splashes and streaks are bad enough in your own home but they are unacceptable if you are working for someone else. If you do splash on carpets, don't use water or chemicals to try to remove it. It could make matters worse. For small splashes, trim the ends of the soiled threads with a pair of small scissors when the paint has dried. If the patch is too large, a product called Goof Off may do the trick.
6. Wet and dry don't mix. If you're using glazes you need to make sure that you're not creating areas where wet paint meets dry edges. The dry paint won't spread at the meeting point and the join will show. Plan to paint areas in one session, without a break. That includes, telephone, tea and toilet interludes. The hotter the weather the faster you will need to work before areas of glaze dries.
7. You may not recognize your painting style, but everyone has their own unique technique. That's why collaborative efforts don't work. People can work together as long as they work on different layers or walls, not different sections of the same layer/wall. Your style can even change during a day: pre- and post-lunch. Plan your sessions and breaks to maximize uniformity in technique. - 16492
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