Saturday, January 3, 2009

My Sewing Machine Causes Tension

By David Trumble

I cant stand it anymore. These tensions are all screwed up.

Sewing machine tension problems rank within the top three user complaints. It does not matter whether the machine itself is a cheap dime store machine or if it is an elegant high quality machine. When the sewing machine tensions are mess up, it can be extremely aggravating. Excess threads may bubble up on top of the fabric, or it may bunch up hidden underneath. In either case, learning to adjust the tensions properly is essential.

The problems with sewing machine tensions may result from many different things. Threading is often a problem. You may have threaded your sewing machine a thousand times, but if the thread rides along the ridge of the tension discs, you get problems. Dirt, grit, gunk, and lint can cause the system to mess up. Rough spots, irregular surfaces, burrs, and rust can ruin tensions. Loosely wound bobbins, bad thread, dull needles, and of course mechanical failures can produce tension problems.

When the tensions are properly set, the top and bottom threads link inside the fabric. The stitching should flow evenly, tightly, consistently over the length and breadth of the seam. There should be no puckers, bubbles, or gobs of thread bunching up underneath or showing on top. There should be no excess thread top or bottom.

Tension is simply the resistance created by the sewing machine to guide and manipulate the thread making it do what it is intended. When this resistance is adjusted correctly, the upper thread and lower thread mechanism balance each other. The result is a quality stitch without excess threads where they should not be.

If you think of the top and bottom thread systems like two tug of war teams, it may help us understand what is actually happening. Each team pulls on their rope. If one team pulls harder than the other, it gets more rope on its side. If the other team pulls harder, it gets the extra rope. In this case, we are talking about thread instead of rope, but the analogy still applies. Therefore, if you see extra thread on top of the fabric, what do you know? Yes, the upper thread system is pulling harder than the lower one. Or the lower one is pulling less than the upper one. In the same way, if you see excess thread on the bottom what do you know?

When you see tension problems, do not panic. All you have to do is modify the resistance on the top and bottom until they equalize.

Begin your corrective efforts by rethreading the upper thread. Be intentional and careful to insure everything is just right. Remember to lift the presser foot while threading. Watch out for anything that might snag the thread. Check to make sure not lint or gunk has messed gotten stuck between the tension discs. Watch out for rough spots. Once you reach the needle, gently draw on the thread two or three inches. You should feel very little resistance. The thread should flow smoothly. Now drop the presser foot, and test again. Is there more resistance? Good.

Double check the threading of the bobbin making sure the thread is smoothly wound on the bobbin. Draw the thread through the bobbin tension checking for any lint or debris that might have gotten stuck in the assembly. The thread should flow through lower tensions properly without any snags or interruptions. Generally, you do not need to adjust the bobbin tension unless you significantly change the size of thread you are using. Test the bobbin tension by drawing the thread through the tension spring. It should require a little pressure, but not a great deal. The thread should flow smoothly. IF you need to adjust the tension, there is a small usually slotted screw that presses against the tension spring. Only turn it slightly right to tighten, left to loosen. Many sewing machine users prefer to leave this adjustment to the capable care of their professional sewing machine technician.

Finally, tighten the upper tension until it balances the lower tension providing stitches that meet in the middle of the fabric. Test and retest. Keep in mind the numbers on you upper tension do not really mean much. The key is to balance the resistance.

Testing is good. Using scap material sew a seam using a straight stitch and then a moderate zig zag stitch. Check the quality of the stitch? Are the tension balanced? Do you see any problems? If so continue to experiment until you are satisfied. Remember, if you test on scrap, before sewing on your fine finish fabric, you will save loads of frustration and sew with greater confidence.

You may notice irregularities on one side of a zig zag stitch and not on the other. Test and adjust until it looks the best you can make it. Some machines have design issues that make a perfect zig zag stitch almost impossible. If you want a perfect stitch and you have one of these older machine, consider getting a better machine.

When you understand how your sewing machine tensions work, you can adjust them with confidence. In those rare instances where your best efforts fail, you can always rely on your local sewing machine repair technician. - 16492

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